If there’s one thing North Carolinians are serious about, it’s their barbecue. The great barbecue debate between the eastern and western halves of the state is centuries-long, and Moore County is situated roughly in the middle.
Ask anyone in the eastern part of the state what defines barbecue, and they will likely tell you it is whole hog, chopped fine, dressed with a vinegar and pepper sauce that has been a staple for centuries. Travel westward, however, and the answer changes. There, pitmasters focus on slow-cooking pork shoulder and finishing it with a tomato-infused dip that adds a touch of sweetness.
That rivalry, often good-natured but fiercely defended, has become part of North Carolina’s culinary identity—so much so, in fact, that I was inspired to get an expert opinion on North Carolina barbecue after my best friend heard mention of North Carolina barbecue on a television show…all the way in Scotland!
At Embers BBQ in Southern Pines, owner David Bungarz embraces the middle ground of Moore County. David opened Embers three years ago after previously running a business in Whispering Pines. This time, he said, he wanted the vision to be his own.
David’s secret to happy customers? “Naked” barbecue. Unlike many pitmasters, David doesn’t serve his pork pre-sauced and instead leaves the decision up to his customers.
“The number one question we get is customers asking if it’s eastern North Carolina barbecue,” explained David. “However, it’s not cooked either way here. We’re kind of in the middle, so I kind of do mine plain with no sauce and let the customers choose on their own. It’s basically served naked.”
Barbecue for David is a blend of simplicity and skill. He seasons his pork, places it in the smoker, and lets time do its work. As a family-owned business, David’s wife often stops by the kitchen to lend a hand, and many of his employees have been with him since the restaurant opened.
“I cook it for anywhere from 12 to 18 hours,” he said. “When it’s done, I remove it from the smoker, let it rest, and shred it to order.”
According to David, that choice has paid off. Though they’re given an assortment of sauces to choose from, customers often prefer the pork plain. The classic pulled pork sandwich remains the restaurant’s most popular item, followed closely by barbecue sold by the pound.
After doing some digging locally, online, and in vintage thrifted cookbooks (thank you, Community Thrift, for your endless selection of cookbooks!), I learned that both traditions have deep roots.
Eastern-style barbecue is often considered the older of the two styles in the state, tracing back to colonial times when cooks roasted the entire hog over coals. The vinegar-based sauce, simple and sharp, pairs well with the richness of the meat. It’s usually served with a side of coleslaw, which can be added to the sandwich itself.
Western-style, which grew in popularity in the early 20th century, narrows the focus to pork shoulder. Its “red” sauce balances the vinegar with ketchup or tomato. This is also referred to as Lexington style and is often paired with slaw or hushpuppies.
Regardless of preference—eastern, western, or just plain naked—it’s safe to say that Moore County is in a sweet spot where we’re perfectly situated for the best of both worlds.
~ Article and photos by Sandhills Sentinel Assistant Editor Abegail Murphy. Abegail has been writing for Sandhills Sentinel since 2021.
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